Weep = UK engineering term for a small leak - more likley to cause
"damp" areas than "wet runs and drips".
Your oil specs are not specs, they are just brands and viscosity
rating. Viscosity is only a measure of how "runny" the oil is. I have
yet to see a marinisers engine manual that does not quote the API spec.
THis refers to how well the oil performs. The higher the API spec, the
more additives there are likely to be in it, and there is some
indication that those additives are implicated in bore glazing in
lightly loaded engines. It is probably best to ignore all the advice
from API and the oil vendors about modern oils specs superceeding older
one (They probably do in cars and trucks) and seek out a supplier of
oil to the spec originally recomended by the mariniser.
The glaze problem apperas to be related to too low a cylinder wall
temperature during combustion, so if you have to run your engines at
light load and low speed it may be best to run them at high speed/load
now and again. I can not say operated them at more then xxx rpm because
load also comes into it. Whenever I am on suitable water (rivers in my
case) I run my engine at maximum speed, taking care to stop opening the
throttle when the revs stop rising, and ensuring the revs are within
the "normal" maxium limits (most marine engines have maximum and
"emergency" power/rev maximums) for at least 15 minutes. I would have
thought that 2000rpm or so would be fine.
Hope this helps
Tony Brooks